Stu's Table; Part 2

Stu & Beth's table is nearly done.  All the parts are cut and finish sanded to 220.  One last dry fit to get the clamping strategy down and then it'll be a table, sans the clamps.  I still need to finish sand the table top and the drawer fronts, but I like to put that off for as long as possible; avoiding dings and dents in this busy shop.

Deconstructed Cherry Table (the lower shelf is safely wrapped in the packing quilt below)

Beautiful lower shelf; cut to fit & ready to go.

Following are a series of progression photos showing how the legs were tapered below the shelf; 

I don't have to; but I always draw the tapers on every leg.   For me, it's a good idea to have a visual reference for each cut to be sure you are tapering the correct side.

I set the taper to start 5/8" below the shelf brace and drew a line around the leg. I wanted the taper to be about a 10 degree so I drew reference lines to see what size foot we would get at 10 degrees. We ended up with feet 1-1/8" square at the bottom which is a pleasing size, so I drew reference lines on the foot.  Last I connected the start and finish cut lines on all the legs. 

That little band saw jig makes things really easy and fast, and guarantees each of your legs are consistent with each other and side to side. 

I orient the leg on a square sheet of scrap and align my cut lines to the edge.  I draw around the leg and then cut out the leg shape on the band saw.  Next you set your band saw fence to the edge of the jig; insert your table leg and cut each leg using the fence to keep the cut straight.

For the final taper, reverse the jig so you are feeding it backwards; spin the leg for the 2nd taper and cut each leg again.

We now have 4 perfectly matched tapered legs. 

Quickie taper jig for the band saw; cut from a piece of scrap plywood (leftover drawer bottom stock)

Legs: tapered 2 sides.  A little scraping and sanding to get the blade and pencil marks off and we're good to go. 

More in a couple days...